The winner of this contest will get a postcard from where I am now, Milan, Italy!
OK, here it is:
Tomorrow night I will have supper with a group of 13 people. Who are they?
The winner of this contest will get a postcard from where I am now, Milan, Italy!
OK, here it is:
Tomorrow night I will have supper with a group of 13 people. Who are they?
It’s interesting how ones perspective changes.
At the time I wasn’t all that interested in the war. I remember hearing about it on the nightly news and wondering what reason there could be for it. I remember casually glancing at headlines as I worked my way to the sports page in the Kansas City Star each morning. But being a Midwestern boy in my mid teens, I generally concentrated more on sports than on the issues affecting people half way around the world. People I would never meet.
But now I’m here, in the Balkans, meeting some of those people (the ones that survived) I readily forgot about as a teen. If you haven’t guessed I’m in Bosnia and Herzegovina, where any direction I gaze, there are the ruins of war. Still. Shells of houses and office buildings, large and small, still left standing as a of cruel reminder of a war that ended almost 18 years ago. Both Sarajevo and Mostar (the two cities in which I’ve stayed while in country) have more than their share of these abandoned, empty monuments to an ugly, not so distant past. Like leaning stacks of Jenga blocks it’s almost incomprehensible how some still stand all these years later.
For me now, about 20 years on, the fleeting teenage curiosity which was easily dismissed in favor of MLB box scores has returned. So I’m here, learning the chronology of events which occurred while I was memorizing Green Day song lyrics…all but oblivious to the world’s ‘big picture’.
Since this happened in the 90’s it’s well documented with thousands of photos and hours of video. Not the grainy, reel to reel type video you may think of from the Vietnam War but decent quality late 20th Century cable news type video. The images displayed in the Bosnian Historical Museum and Siege Exhibition (both in Sarajevo) will not soon leave my mind and they make it easy to feel emotional pain and sadness about events that took place here only a generation ago.
But an even stronger emotion I’ve had the last few days is one of shame. Shame it took me two decades to learn about things I’m old enough to remember. And shame such events took place in my lifetime (and still are in other parts of the world).
Perhaps I feel more connected to this because my brother was here, off the coast in the Adriatic, while in the Navy. Perhaps because boys just a few years older than me, living within the Siege of Sarajevo, would be initiated into the Bosnian Army in 1992 and their Serbian counterparts could have been responsible for civilian deaths, murders really, in ‘Sniper Alley’, the road that connects industrial Sarajevo to its cultural and historic Old Town.
As someone traveling long-term, I take photos of many things (that’s what we do) but for some reason I haven’t taken too many while in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Below is one of the few. It’s a picture of a nail and some paint. The most important nail in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The nail and red paint was the marker used, on the out-of-town side of the Tunnel of Hope, to help guide the builders of the tunnel. I don’t know the logistics, but suffice it to say that looking from one side to the other, almost 1000 meters, through binoculars and seeing this nail somehow gave the engineers enough directional information so the two sides met in the middle, five meters under the airport runway.
The one question I asked my Tunnel Tour guide was, ‘What would have happened without the tunnel?’ The look on his face was at the same time stoic and frightened, thankful and worried. And it spoke volumes. Without the tunnel the hopes of people within the city would surely have declined. And a weakened resolve could have been enough to….well, I don’t want to think about it.
To me the nail symbolizes the cold, steely resolve of these people and both contributed to their survival.
Who knew a nail could mean so much?
Being in Istanbul first gave me the chance to start my Turkish experience like every other country over the last six months: solo. It allowed me to visit some must-see sites in and around Sultanahmet, Istanbul at my pace…on my schedule. Just the way I like it. That said, I was really looking forward to the upcoming adventure. I welcomed the change of pace.
Together, with my friend Alex, who I’d met in Warsaw less than a month earlier, we’d formed the beginnings of a master plan for our road trip around Turkey. There were a few places that were a must-see on the list of destinations: Cappadocia, Pamukkale, the coast. Other than that, we had no idea what would happen, where we’d go on our road trip or how long we’d stay there…like I said, the beginnings of a plan. In other words we’d be going on some ‘Unmapped Travels’, and figuring it out along the way.
For me, it was an epic journey. Not only for the experiences we had, the people met along the way (local and traveler alike), and things we were able to see but also for the friendship that can only grow out of a 10 day road trip in a small hatchback. Ten days I will not soon forget.
Here’s a little breakdown of my Turkish road trip:
Other than that, there are a few funny stories and interesting experiences (both on the road trip and in Istanbul) that are worth noting:
That’s it. An amazing experience from start to finish. Eighteen days of food and culture. Natural and man-made sites that are among the most interesting I’ve visited in Europe.
Thank you Turkey, I will be back!
I’ll be leaving Turkey in about a week. If you can guess where I’m going I’ll send you a postcard!!
While taking this picture I am standing atop a roof in Europe but Asia is across the water. Where am I?
Before arriving in Scotland I’d heard of something called the Scotch Whisky Experience (SWE). Other than reading it was worth visiting, and its near the Edinburgh Castle, I knew nothing about what it actually was other than it having something to do with scotch. Also, I knew it would make all my scotch loving friends massively jealous and that was enough to make up my mind…I was going! These types of tours are typically not as much fun solo, luckily I had met two friends (Andrea and Tim) in my hostel that also wanted to go.
Since we three were all traveling long-term, on a budget (Andrea, about 7 months and Tim, over 2 years!, and me, somewhere between), we chose to take the least expensive tour available. While some tours included dinner and some other extras, ours was more basic…but still fantastic! The tour guide placed us in a roller-coaster-like whisky barrel seat and we went on a 10 minute ride that explained the entire process of making Scotch. Starting with ingredients, then going through the different methods used to create malt, on to aging, bottling, etc. I knew most of the process already but they present the information in an interesting way and I think it would be easy for someone with no previous knowledge to follow along. After the informational ride our guide took us into a room with about 25 tasting glasses set up, unfortunately only one was for me. She explained the four main distilling regions for single malts in Scotland and the characteristics of each. They include:
Along with the 4 main single malt regions there are also blended scotch whisky distillers (Johnny Walker being the world’s best selling) where they will mix several different single malts to create a unique blend.
After giving us the 411 on the single malt regions we practiced picking out the different aromas using a scratch and sniff card. No joke. After only a few minutes with the card, along with some tips/hints from our guide, we were (nearly) able detect fruity notes in Speyside Whiskies and the stronger smoky peat flavors from Islay. We then got to choose a single malt from one region, or a blend to taste. Since the night before I had indulged in a small, airplane sized bottle of 18-year-old Bowmore (an Islay scotch), I chose to try Speyside. Tim picked Islay and Andrea went with the Highland region. Out guide poured each of our drinks and led us to another room, the tasting room. While she was unlocking the door I realized this was the only locked room on the tour, and for good reason as it houses the world’s largest collection of unopened single malt scotch. Over 3400 unique bottles, no duplicates. That’s three thousand four hundred bottles of single malt scotch, unique and unopened! Owned by the parent company of Johnny Walker, and on loan to the SWE for 10 years, it’s the perfect place to taste scotch and end the tour. Since Andrea, Tim, and I each chose a different scotch to taste we decided to taste each others also. And with our new knowledge of the subtle flavors and aromas unique to each region it was quite easy to pick out the differences in the three, and I suspect if we were able to try whisky from the Lowlands on this day we could have picked out its characteristics as well.
Below is a video of the tasting room (apologies for the amateur-ish-ness, my cameraman doesn’t exist so I shot this with my iPhone).
You do not need to be a scotch connoisseur to enjoy this experience. The historical and cultural information learned from the SWE stand alone as reason enough to visit, and the whisky barrel ride, while sort of kitschy, is entertaining. The tasting at the end, in that tasting room, is just icing on the cake. I think almost anyone, apart from someone who is against drinking alcohol altogether, would have a good time at the SWE.
This was a really enjoyable morning for all three of us (that’s right, we were doing this at 10 am!) and something I wish I could have shared with my brother and our scotch loving friends, but was glad to share it with two other solo travelers nonetheless. It’s something I would recommend to anyone traveling to Edinburgh, and when I go back to Scotland I may do it again, just to see that collection!
While traveling long-term I’ve learned many things are inevitable. One such thing is you’ll definitely meet people along the way you make a connection with. Fast friends you’ll spend days with, or longer if traveling the same direction. While this has happened several times during my five months abroad, my Prague experience was slightly different. Usually these friendships have been with one or two, sometimes three others. But I spent the last few days in a group of eight. My Prague family.
For me it started a few hours after my 6:10 Friday morning Prague arrival. After taking the overnight bus from Kraków I relaxed while watching seemingly endless episodes of Seinfeld on the hostel big screen. I soon met Melbourne, Alaska and Adelaide and joined them on the free Old Town Prague walking tour. Halfway through, Sydney and Argentina joined us and soon after two Coloradans grew our group to eight.
Many times on the road you’ll find yourself spending time with a large group like this but something seemed different in this situation. The only way to describe it is that everyone seemed to genuinely like everyone else. There were no petty squabbles (save the occasional ‘I can drink you under the table’ argument between Alaska and Adelaide) like in real families or among strangers living together. I had more than one ‘real’ conversation with each of the other seven and noticed them all doing the same with each other. If you are someone who hasn’t been thrust into situations with this many strangers, let me tell you…it doesn’t always happen this way. In fact it rarely happens this way. There’s always someone who doesn’t get along with someone else, or someone who seems great at first but along the way proves to be the odd man out. This group was different; there was an interesting dynamic, an uncommon ease with which we came together, especially since we were all strangers about twelve hours earlier.
That ease is partly, perhaps, because we had great variety: there were six solo travelers and one couple, round-the-world trippers and three-week holidayers, girls and boys, young and…not so young. The family consisted of (in order of how I met them) Alaska, the part-time philosopher and full-time economics student; Adelaide, the nurse who has the best Aussie accent; Melbourne, the future economics student on gap year before starting his studies; Argentina, the self-proclaimed ‘16 year old girl’ of drinkers with a refreshing sense of humor and love of life; Sydney, the future journalist (also there is no doubt she was a hippie in a previous life); Colorado and Colorado, a couple fresh from college graduation with a love of photographer and each other; and me, Kansas, who has been on the road the longest and I guess the big brother of the family.
The eight of us spent only two days together, less than 48 hours really, before travel plans and prior commitments forced the first goodbyes (another inevitability that comes with traveling and something you become all too familiar with living out of a backpack), but what a great two days it was! If you’ve read a few Unmapped Travels posts you may know I love walking around new cities, luckily for me all members of the Prague Family had a similar interest in getting lost on unknown streets. We (nearly) always had a destination in mind and what must have looked like purposeless wandering somehow always lead us exactly where we wanted to go, and usually took us to very interesting places along the way. Some of these places were the Prague Castle, all of Old Prague city center and the Jewish Quarter, the astronomical clock, several bridges over the Vtlava River (including the historic Charles Bridge and the Most Legit Bridge – those who’ve been to Prague will get this inside joke), the John Lennon Wall, Petrinski Park, and the Letenske Park beer garden. Perhaps the two-day highlight was the Jazz Club we went to our first night together. There was no Jazz that night but instead an Eastern European band covering western music, and covering it great. All members of the quartet were very talented but the keyboard player inparticular blew our minds. Also, the 24-or-so year old Czech girl scat singing in every song was pretty damn fantastic. They are easily the most entertaining club band I’ve ever seen!
The third day (which I think could have been classified as our best together if the Coloradans hadn’t left for Munich that morning) consisted of the same wandering, just in a different city. We took the train one hour east to Kutna Hora to visit the Sedlec Ossuary, the bone church. This church, at the same time interesting and extremely macabre, is decorated in 40,000 human skeletons. It is inexpensive to get to and visit. And with the value of the traveler dollar here on the western edge of Eastern Europe, it’s worth every Czech Koruna. Though we traveled to Kutna Hora for the bone church, we fell in love with the city’s back streets, architecture, and views near the Cathedral and former Jesuit College. It was Sunday and in the all-but-constant mist we had the town almost to ourselves. Few cars and fewer pedestrians
passed by as we walked the three kilometers from train station to Cathedral and back, stopping countless times along the way to take a photo, admire a vista, or just rest and chat. For me personally, near the end of our 6 hours in Kutna Hora the city had moved near the top of my favorite places visited list (partly because of the place and partly because of the company). Even though it was misting all day, I couldn’t help but think the travel gods had smiled on us as we walked around this amazing city.
More goodbyes happened the next morning, and by now, three days later, everyone has moved on in their respective travels, but the experiences our Prague Family had will not soon fade from memory. Experiences and memories. Two more things that are inevitable…and the reason we all travel.
I think everyone has been in this situation: You’ve heard person after person and review after review give the same high praise to something (like when you’re about to see a movie or read a book or listen to an album). Maybe it’s because I usually see new movies only when they make it to TV and discover new bands only after I hear friends talk about them for months, but it happens to me all the time. So, I try to keep expectations low after hearing good reviews of something because going in with those unachievable high expectations always leads to letdown; even if it ends up being great, the real thing can never live up to the hype.
I went to Belgium knowing it’s one of the top locales in the world (some would argue it is #1) when it comes to abundance of great beer. I knew the hype. I’d heard it many times before arriving in, and countless times the previous three months while traveling through, Europe. So, as is customary in this situation I went in with low expectations; not British Real Ale or Schlitz Ice low, but low nonetheless.
I must say: I was pleasantly surprised. Astonished actually. More on that later.
I’d actually started trying Belgian beers in The Netherlands while staying with my friends Hans and Drusella. Everywhere we went I tried either a local Dutch beer or a different Belgian, which were on ever menu…and all good. These beers were exactly what I’d expected and was accustomed to from trying imported Belgian beers like Duvel and Affligem in Kansas City. As mentioned before, Belgium has (perhaps) the greatest concentration of good beer in the world. It would be fun to taste as many as possible and write about my favorites. Fun, and expensive, and something I’d be more willing to try as a 23-year-old. Because of the scale of drinking that would entail, I took a slightly different approach to this edition of European Beer Culture Unfiltered. I’d be spending 4 nights in Belgium, two each in Brussels and then Brugge, and had heard about one specific (and unique) brewery in each city. In Brussels the Cantillon Brewery and in Brugge, De Halve Maan Brewery. I decided to take each brewery tour, taste their respective offerings and report on those experiences. So, here it is:
Cantillon Brewery in Brussels
Admittedly as I approached the Cantillon Brewery, in a sort of run down looking – off the tourist tract – Brussels neighborhood, I was skeptical. Surely this ‘great’ brewery wasn’t in this neighborhood with trash on every sidewalk and abandoned buildings on every street corner. But if there is one thing you learn over and over as a traveler, it’s to not judge a book by its cover. That applies with people as well as places, so walking into the brewery I was determined to find out for myself what Cantillon, and their beer, were all about. I immediately had a smile slapped on my face that wouldn’t leave until well after I’d taken the subway back toward my hostel. Upon entry you immediately see that this operation has been around for a while…its not just trying to look vintage, but actually old school.
Started in 1900 (and currently owned/operated by the 4th generation of the same family), Cantillon brews Lambic beer, a sour tasting beer that, due to the natural fermenting agents (bacteria and yeast) which are present in the ambient air of the wort cooling room, goes through spontaneous fermentation after being transferred to oak or chestnut barrels. Historically all beers were produced this way but after 1860 when Louis Pasteur made some discoveries in the exciting world of yeasts (that eventually led to the processes of TOP fermentation and BOTTOM fermentation, both of which utilize the intentional introduction of specific yeasts) that changed. Now only Lambic is still brewed using spontaneous fermentation.
Still with me? That is the boring technical stuff about Cantillon Brewery.
The fun stuff was the tour and tasting. I’ve only been on a few brewery tours but this was definitely the best! I think that’s because Cantillon is a true old-timey, family run operation and it being a self-guided tour with a read along informational booklet provided. I was able to go at my pace, take as many pictures as I wanted, and I had time to look at EVERYTHING. At one point I sat down and read part of the booklet for ten minutes. That would never happen in a larger brewery, guided tour environment.
After spending about an hour going through the facilities I made my way to the bar to get my, ‘included in the tour fee’, two sample beers! First they gave me a tasting glass with Grand Cru Bruocsella, a three-year old Lambic that, since it doesn’t undergo secondary fermentation in the bottle and no extraneous CO2 is added, is a beer without foam. Some call it the missing link between beer and wine. It was very sour, slightly too sour for my taste but after learning about the process and the beer I definitely appreciated the craftmanship involved in brewing Lambic. Getting to choose the second beer I would taste, I went for the one that
didn’t have any fruit added (many Lambic varieties have fruit soaked in the beer for many months to impart their flavors in the beer). I chose Gueuze. I know, funny name. (side note: Since I visited Cantillon I’ve tried to use Gueuze while playing Words with Friends to no avail!) Gueuze is a blend of one, two, and three-year old Lambics that DOES go through secondary fermentation in the bottle. A good Gueuze in a good cellar can keep for more than 25 years! This was also sour, but I thought smoother than the Grand Cru and since it was bottle conditioned had a head similar to what ‘modern’ beer would have. Both beers had a nice golden color and the tasting room was full of other tour goers chatting in between ‘bitter beer face’ looks. That made me laugh!
The whole experience, from walking in to taking the tour to tasting the finished products was great. And since I’d recently been told, by two different people, I was wearing one of two or three shirts in all my pictures (because I’m only traveling with a few shirts!), I bought a new Cantillon Brewery t-shirt. It was a great morning in Brussels!
De Halve Maan Brewery
Going back six generations the De Halve Maan Brewery in Brugge, formerly Henri Maes Brewery, has been operated by the same family. After a few incarnations of the company over the last few decades, including a name change to De Halve Maan (The Half Moon), this is the last brewery of what once were hundreds within the Brugge city walls. This, brewery which has been used for generations, is still being in production today and along with their other facility nearby but outside the city (there was no room for expansion) the beer they produce is, in my opinion, phenomenally good.
Located on a busy square in touristy Brugge it’s a much more commercial looking set up than the Cantillon Brewery. It has to be more commercial to survive in this environment. That said,
the price for a tour was inexpensive at 7 Euro (including the beer) and the guided tour, while fast paced and crowded, was interesting (I had a great tour guide) and informational. And by placing myself at the end of the line most of the time, I was able to hang around in some areas to snap a few photos as if I were there alone. Like I said, this brewery has been in operation for well over 100 years and while they’ve upgraded to more efficient, modern equipment in many areas of the operation, the ambiance of generations past remains. More ‘modern’ styles of beer are brewed here, no Lambics, so there would be nothing sour about this day, not even the taste! The complimentary beer received here is not a taster, rather a full pint of Brugse Zot in their signature glass (every beer has its own glass in Europe, and they are all shaped differently). This goldenblond beer is the brainchild of the sixth generation leader of this brewery and was introduced in 2005. To me it was kind of a cross between really good craft brewed Pale Ale and Wheat beer in the States. There was nothing overpowering about the taste or aroma and at the same time I could tell I was enjoying a something special.
Later I would find out people come from all over Europe, and the World, to drink this beer in the exact place I was sitting. But why? Being the only beer still produced in Brugge’s town center, it is said to have a different, better taste at the brewery. Although I didn’t hear if there is any validity to this claim, I would guess it has something to do with the beer served here being at its best and not sent to a bottling facility outside the city. Whether it’s local legend or actual fact, I felt truly lucky to enjoy a truly great beer in this place.
The next day, my last in Brugge, I was out getting a bite to eat and noticed the other style of beer produced by De Halve Maan, Straffe Hendrik (Strong Henry). There are a couple different varieties: Straffe Hendrik Tripel and Straffe Hendrik Quadruple. Since I’ve tried a few in the past I went with the Tripel so I could compare it to others. First off, it was better than other Tripels I’ve tried. A smooth, hoppy taste with a complexity of flavor I’ve rarely encountered. And it was better than the Brugse Zot I tried at the brewery, I wasn’t expecting that. In fact Straffe Hendrik Tripel is the best beer I’ve ever tasted. Again…the BEST BEER I’VE EVER HAD! EVER!! I really wasn’t expecting that! The intense flavors somehow manage to not overpower each other and it’s drinkability remains even though it is a 9% beer. Also, this beer has an awesome history I didn’t know until writing this article. It was developed on demand of the local Mayor in 1981 to be served at the inauguration of the statue of Sint-Arnoldus, the saint of beer brewers. How cool is that?
So knowing I wouldn’t be able to try all the great beers in Belgium I narrowed my scope and tried beers from two local brewers owned by two brewing families in two great cities. The results were interesting, educational, and…well…tasty! I couldn’t have been more pleased with both experiences: the traditional and historic sour taste at Cantillon Brewery (one of the last breweries still doing it the ‘old way’) and the indescribable perfection at De Halve Maan.
Anyone who’s spent a good amount of time traveling will have their own list of ‘best practices’ while on the road. If you’re in that category you may already do some things on this list but at the least it’ll be a good refresher for you. And who knows, you may learn something new too. If you haven’t done much traveling, or much traveling in unfamiliar places, these recommendations could make your travels more enjoyable…not to mention less stressful! Here’s a list of my Best Travel Tips, Rules, Etiquette, and Common Sense for Life on the Road. Enjoy! (note: I don’t cover tips for everything in this post, hotels are one example. If I don’t use it regularly I don’t feel I should give advice so their not included.)
Irish stout, or ‘leann dubh’ (black beer) in Irish, has a dark, rich color and when poured correctly, a nice thick creamy head. The taste of coffee and/or roasted malt normally comes out when drinking an Irish stout and some people also get a hint of chocolate in a subtle sweet aftertaste.
That’s a little background on the main players in the Irish Stout game. The only real question is about taste, and like anything else that’s subjective, it is a personal preference. A local Cork bartender told me Beamish has the strongest taste and Murphy’s is really close in taste to Guinness. After tasting all three in a three night span, in the cities they are brewed, I’d agree with that.
Personally, I like Guinness (with Murphy’s a very close second) and like a lot of people, think Guinness in Ireland tastes better than Guinness somewhere else… but the Murphy’s I had in Cork also tasted better than Guinness I’ve had back home too. I’ll have to try Murphy’s in the US to find out if it’s as good as the Murphy’s in Cork, but I doubt it. Maybe the taste here is getting an Irish ambiance boost! And Beamish was a little too close to coffee for my tastes so it ran a distant third in the taste race.
In the past Irish Stout was the beer of choice for locals (Guinness in the north and Murphy’s in the south), but that’s been changing for a couple of decades. Nowadays, lighter ales, lagers,and pilsners are more popular. In fact, I saw more locals drinking Budweiser than any dark beer (as an American who likes beer with some taste, this was sad to see), but I guess foreign beer is exotic all around the world (Aussies don’t drink Foster’s but it’s popular in the UK).